Just a quick one for now. I stumbled across a webpage tonight made by a longtime motorcycle mechanic named Dan. It's filled with all kinds of tips and tricks, as well as some pretty helpful (and well illustrated) instructions on the basics. (like soldering, the skill that I was trying to improve upon tonight).
It's worth bookmarking as a reference point, if nothing else. Dan has been a motorcycle mechanic since 1967, and seems to have learned a lot of things the hard way, so you and I don't have to.
For the second installment of the Motorcycle Mcgyvering series, I want to talk about the driver's backrest I built for my Majesty. Unfortunately, this one won't really translate to other models of bike since the seat design's won't be the same, but hopefully it'll at least give you an idea of what's possible with harvested parts and a little experimentation.
My original backrest design used the Majesty's "butt pad", raised up on a metal bracket, to serve as a back rest. It worked alright, and looked good, but it lacked lower back support, and left two holes in the seat that were difficult to cover up.
I settled for this set-up for a while, for lack of any better ideas. However, we had replaced the driver's seat in my family's RV, and the headrest from the original seat seemed like an ideal candidate for a new and improved backrest. If you don't have an extra headrest laying around, you could probably find one at an auto salvage yard. I'd imagine many of them would probably just let you have one for free, especially if the upholstery on it is in bad shape. As long the foam on the inside is ok, it will work fine for these purposes.
I reused the bracket from the first backrest. It basically consists of some flat steel from Home Depot, welded together in the shape of an uppercase "I". I asked a local welding shop to do the welds for me. It took them all of 30 seconds to do them, and they didn't even charge me. I bent the vertical portion of the "I" to match the curve of the seat as closely as I could, and drilled holes in the bottom of the "I" to match the holes in the seat. I then drilled holes in the back of the head rest to push a couple carriage bolts through, and fastened the headrest to the top of the bracket.
I used a scroll saw to cut a notch out in the back of the butt pad, to allow room for the bracket. In retrospect, I should have been more careful to remove the vinyl material covering the butt pad before cutting it, then reattached it, instead of trying to pull it out of the way and rewrapping it around the notch. Some electrical tape is currently doing a decent job of covering the edge and holding the cover in place. At some point down the road, I'd like to have both the headrest portion and the butt pad recovered by someone who knows what they're doing.
The headrest originally had a blue fabric covering it. I removed the fabric, and spray painted the foam as a temporary solution until I can get it recovered.
I held the new backrest in place and sandwiched it between the seat and the butt pad, using the bolts built into the butt pad to hold everything in place. (The yellow line across the seat in this picture is evidence of how insane the tree pollen has been this spring)
The new backrest is much more comfortable than the first version, providing both upper and lower back support, and placing me in the proper place on the seat. With the butt pad raised up, I felt like I was sitting too far back, as the padding in the seat gets a little thin towards the very back of the seat. Now the seat works as it was originally designed, plus the addition of the backrest. I think that the result looks professional enough, and it will look even better when I get around to getting everything recovered.
I recently changed the tires on the Majesty, after about 15000 miles. I had never changed them myself before, so it was a bit of a learning experience, but I managed. The first tire took me several hours, and one tire iron to the face, to get off, but after getting the jist of it, I managed the second one in about 30 minutes and saved myself fifty bucks and a trip to the shop. Anyway, as someone who doesn't have a lot of money for tools and such, I always appreciate finding a way to do something with whatever I happen to have laying around. On that note, I'd like to share a series of videos I found about doing exactly that.
The first one covers bead breaking. I didn't spend quite as much time as he does making the "breaker". A short piece of 2x4 with one end cut at an angle worked just fine.
The next part covers removing the the old tire, and putting on the new one. I did it pretty much the same way, but I used pieces of milk carton to protect the rim from the tire irons. They worked pretty well, though they fell apart pretty quickly too. I've heard that the plastic they use to make motor oil bottles works well, or the white jugs of orange juice. Basically, something thick enough to hold up, but thin enough to be flexible and slide in between the tire and rim.
The final part covers balancing. I didn't actually balance my tires this way. I used a product called Dyna Beads. They work great, and saved a lot of time, and the ride seems to actually be smoother than it was with static balancing. Also, since they constantly rebalance themselves, if you ever do have to plug or otherwise repair a tire in the field, it'll still be balanced.
Anyway, as long as you don't mind getting a little dirty, I'd definitely recommend changing your own tires instead of taking them to a shop. It's really not that difficult, especially after going through the process once, and honestly I've never really trusted any shop to do a job as well as I'd do it myself.
